Along the Coast

 

Last time I went to Kerala, I decided to take my cousin and go for a road trip. John said he will get a bike somehow and I decided we were going to Kochi following a coast line route that I figured out by staring at Google Maps for thirty minutes. We were going to tell our family that we are taking the bike to the railway station, taking a train from there to Kochi in the morning. Our parents think motorbikes are not a safe mode of transport. So, we decided to lie and get out of this one.

 

It was decided. Sunday morning sharp 5 in the morning John came to my apartment. I was already ready with my camera and backpack. Mom hadn’t made breakfast yet, but she made tea for John and I drank a glass of water. Soon we were on our way.

 

We were going to drive along the coastline, stopping at the famous beaches in between, it was some 80 kilometres one side. And the highway wouldn’t be too much hectic. From Vadanapally to Fort Kochi. We first rode to Vadanapally. It was still dark, fishermen readying their small boats and fishing nets. This is the beach I was used to seeing. My grandparents’ house was just 2 kilometres from here. Whenever I was with them my uncle or cousins would bring us here. We used to play with the waves and when uncle was in a good mood, he would let me ride his red swift car. We both were silent. Watching the sun rise like an orange bubble. The beach was still cold and I clicked some pictures as John sat on the sand. As the sun become stronger, we decided it was time to hit the road again.

Vadanapally Beach

 

The bike was a new V15. It had a good pick up and moved smoothly. The problem with it was that the whole body vibrated. It made our backs numb. The whole bike shivered like it had typhoid and that was difficult for us to deal with. At some point we had to stop for a while to give our backs a break. Once when we got of the bike, John was still shaking and I had to snap him out of it by stepping on his feet.

 

Kara beach was what came after Vadanapally. It was a small beach. The smallest I would’ve seen. With trees on either side of the beach and small fishing boats on the sand. We rode the bike on the sand for a while and I loved the smell of salt and fish that was very evident when you are close to the sea.

Kara Beach

‘Da, Tom.’ John said ‘Can we stop at some church, we don’t need to go inside, we just have to stop outside’

‘Why?’ I was surprised.

‘it’s Sunday and Mummy made me promise I would go for the Sunday mass’ John said and he looked heavy with this burden.

‘Take the picture from the internet, tell Mummy you saw the mass. If she asks me, I will tell her we attended the mass.’

The burden eased, he smiled and the innocent polite person he is, he asked ‘is it ok?’

‘Of course, it is.’ I reassured him and we go on with our road trip.

Next up was Cherayi beach. As we were on our way a group of Harley Davidson riders overtook us. As much as we tried, we couldn’t even get near them. We saw them again as we reached the beach, they were already there and settled. John was taken aback by the blue waters, the tourist and the long coastline. He was happy. I could tell. We both never spoke too much. But we had some bond that existed ever since he was born. I was the eldest of the cousins and he was the second. We were inseparable during our childhood but as we grew up, we started seeing each other less often. Now, whenever I’m in Thrissur we meet up and do something together. He is always polite and humble. But he’s up for anything as long as I’m up for it. We made a formidable team. He is my friend and family.

Back waters on the way to Cherayi Beach

We left Cherayi and were on open wide roads. Next stop was a place called Mundakkal. A small fishing village and it also had a ferry service to Vypin. We decided we will take the ferry. The place was buzzing with fishermen and early morning market goers. The last batch of fish had arrived and they were auctioning it outside the dock. There was huge crowd waiting for the fish. The small sailboat docked outside danced with the waves. John and I had something to drink and was talking to the shopkeeper about the ferry. He told us that the ferry service was on strike and I will have to go by road. Which meant we would take more time as we had to go all the way around. But we could also go to the lighthouse. We walked around for a while and decided to leave.

Vypin was silent. Narrow roads near the old lighthouse and muddy. The bike was tired and we were too. We stopped near the lighthouse and clicked some pictures. We waited for a little while and went to the beach. Tried drifting on the sand and failed. Sat down for a while. It felt good, sotto on something that wasn’t shaking and shivering. We decided to take the Vypin ferry to Fort Kochi.

Vypin Lighthouse

 

It took us 10 minutes on the ferry. And we were there. Fort Kochi. We walked on the stony walk way. Taking pictures. John was happy. Too happy. He hasn’t done much of travelling and it was my duty to introduce him to this life on the road.

 

‘This is the right way to do it.’ he told me

‘The right way to do what?’ I asked, I was confused

‘To travel, to go on a trip. This is the right way to do it’ he said. Excited and happy. ‘I have gone on trips with my school friends and even family, but it was just the usual, this is different, this has a bit of thrill to it’

Those words were enough to make me happy I had finally made it up to him. After staying away from home, I was back, and he was happy I was back. That was enough. We had lunch roamed around the narrow streets of Maatanchery, Vytila, Thevara and by evening we decided to head back home. John was happy, I might’ve never seen him happier and I was content.

Chinese fishing nets at Fort Kochi

In all this happiness we forgot about the photo and told Johns mom we attended mass at Edappaly church. John also memorised some words which he said was what the priest said during mass, I just followed his lead and agreed to everything.

 

 

Waves of realization.

Midnight, Messages and calls flooded my phone. It was my birthday and here I was in my white shorts and a worn out tee waiting for the train. The cold air and the warm lights wrapped around me like a cloak. Cantonment seems calm, with people sleeping on the platforms and the dirty over bridge steps. I was too excited about my escape and kept on walking here and there. The platform trembled as the train screamed and made its way towards the station. Suddenly people came out of nowhere and as the train stopped, I could see the general compartment stuffed with people. I jumped onto the steps, held the door and pushed myself inside the crowded compartment. It smelled like any other India train with sweaty bodies all around me. Unable to breathe, i stood on my toes so I was tall enough to grasp a bit of air whenever possible. The train was bound for Chennai and I had to get down at Arakkonam and take another train to Pondicherry I stood in the same position for six hours till I reached Arakonam.

Arakkonam was a junction with eight platforms. I reached around 30 minutes past six and got a ticket for my train to Pondicherry which will be at 7:20. I asked the guy in the counter where the train would come and he said “platform number 8, that side”, pointing to the further end of the station. Even though Arakkonam had eight platforms, there were only 6 of them which were labelled and the rest remained a mystery. Platform 8 was harder to find than platform 9 ¾ from harry potter. Finally one uncle told me it was outside the station and there was a curved railway track besides a muddy strip of raised land, which was the platform. When I got there, I was confused. The so called platform had pigs and stray dogs feeding on human waste and all the rotting garbage. People using the tracks like a public toilet. Children treating the passing trains with their naked butts and the smile of morning satisfaction.  

Train arrived, slow and tired. Unusual emptiness spread across the compartments with sunlight from the right windows and small gaps, meeting the blue seats. I hadn’t slept so I decided to shut my eyes for a while. The coach was empty, so I kept my bag on the end opposite to the window and fell asleep. I woke up as I reached Chengalpattu. I looked outside the window and I could see water after the station, I rubbed my eyes, shook myself and made sure I was not dreaming. The lake looked calm and peaceful. I wanted to get down and enjoy the lake but Pondicherry was my destination, this was just a small treat on the way. I beamed outside the window, watching the blue water and the bright sky.

I reached Pondicherry around half past one. I jumped out of the train, smirking like a total idiot. The station seemed empty and it lacked all the rush that you would normally find in a tourist place. I walked out of the station into the bright sunlight and warm breeze. “Pondicherry.” I whispered to myself, “happy birthday Tom”.

I took an auto.

“yenga ponam?“ he asked me in tamil.

‘Aurobindho asram’ I said

’60 rupees’ he told me with a smile.

‘romba jasthi anna, meter podu’

Then he gave me a lecture on how no autos in Pondicherry have meter and sixty bucks is a reasonable price. I agreed eventually and was soon on my way.

The ashram was engulfed with trees and flowers. The silence that surrounded the roads and the building soothed my tired soul. They asked me to take of my chappals and switch of my phone before I entered the ashram. The carpet tickled the underneath of my feat. I walked to the big white marble tomb that looked like an Italian bath tub. On top there were flowers of all colours, neatly arranged. I could see dew drops on petals. The place had aura that drove away any negativity. It cleansed the mind with its stillness. I saw others kneeling down besides the tomb. I hesitated for a while and then with all those eyes staring at me, I kneeled. I touched the cold marble and out of nowhere the hair on my back and hands raised softly. I got up and walked away slowly, a bit confused, a bit happy. I went inside the gift shop which was filled with books and photographs. I bought a photograph of Aurobindho, when he was much younger. I hadn’t eaten anything since last night and my stomach was growling inside. I started walking around the narrow streets with light coloured buildings that welcomed me into this pleasant land. I found this hotel called ‘The cartoon kitchen’ ordered one burger and lime juice. I was so hungry that I didn’t even have the patience to take out the vegetables inside the burger, which I usually do. The patty was well cooked and I could feel the meat playing sweet satisfying tunes in my mouth. I eased into the chair after the meal. I wanted to change and I asked them where the washroom was, they told me it was upstairs. I ran up the stairs, removed my clothes which probably smelt like the train and put it inside the back bag. I poured two cups of water, washed my hands and face properly, wiped myself with a towel I bought when I arrived at the station. I changed into a fresh pair of shorts and a shirt. I wanted to get to the beach as fast as possible. Pondicherry beach, have heard so much about its simplicity and loving waves. I wandered around and found shops selling some tee shirts. I bought one, changed it then and there and was all set for the beach.

I walked around the streets and found this museum. I decided to go in and check it out. ‘Puducherry museum’ it read out loud on a blue arch in the front. The museum was under renovation but they still let me in. The museum was dusty with rocks and relics of a lost time. It had a collection of antique guns which was really interesting. I walked around the museum and the only moment where I spent some time was when I was watching an artist restoring an old nude painting. I stared at the painting. There were two lovers and two kids, nude. It somehow made me laugh; I have no idea why though. I somehow liked what I saw. I got out of the museum and there was Bharati park just opposite. It’s basically a spot for lovers to sit under the shade do what they want. I walked around for a while and then decided it was not worth it.

I knew I was getting closer to the beach, I could smell it in the cool breeze. Finally I came up to a small alley, with small white buildings on both sides and that alley led straight to the beach. I started smiling, I didn’t realise it for a while. I kept walking around like an illuminated bulb. The sand felt like an itchy rag that you usually get in KSRTC buses when you travel in the night. I sat on the beach with the Gandhi statue behind me, overlooking the city.

I had bought a tiny jar, the size of my thumb, with a teddy bear inside. It had a message inside which I didn’t care for. I opened the jar, threw out the teddy and the scroll that had the message and filled the jar with sand, broken sea shells and shook it. Pondicherry in a bottle, I thought to myself. I stared at it for a long time. A wave of thoughts engulfed me. This is who I am meant to be. A nobody travelling to strange places with torn pockets and loose clothes. Lost mind wandering to find a meaning for existence. This is who I am, on the beach, happy as I ever could be, alone and alive.

I spotted this café right next to the beach. It had palm trees and grass lawn. That got to me and I decided to go have a look. I got in and the place was amazing. Not because of the quality of food or the value for money, but because it overlooked the beach and the breeze made its way through the iron barricade and the potted plants and hugged me close. I was captivated by this slice of Eden. I ordered one mocha shake which tasted like blended chocolate cake. Then after a while I had natural lemon iced tea. After three hours of relaxing, I finally got out of the café.

I walked besides the beach looking at the people having their moment, lovers making new memories and parents watching their children play. I was happy, alone, but happy. I sat on the stone laid forth like the stretched arm of a giant. I looked to my side and I could see the extension of the light house road, going into the sea. The light house was lit, glaring and turning. The small ships in different colours were flocked down under the bridge like small broken crayons.  I sat there, right at the edge, sea waves just touching my feet and the sky painted into a slight yellowish orange, like a beautiful dream.

I walked away from the beach and to the railway station. Tried out a few cafés on the way. Trying out pastas, salads and pan fried pizza. The railway station was empty except for a really old man, older than the chair he was sitting on, which was covered with rust and had bent legs. When I asked them at the enquiry they told me there are no trains available and the last train left at seven thirty. So my plan of going back by train was not possible. I asked them what would be the next best option, they said bus. So I took an auto to the new bus stand. It was huge and crowded. I took a ticket for the 11.45 bus to Bangalore. Then I took a small bus back to the town. Roamed around the backside of the town for a while and before I knew it, it was time to go home.

It started raining. The roads were empty and the wind was cold and crisp. I always sit by the window. Otherwise I have this feeling that I will suffocate and die. I slipped into a pool of thoughts. This journey that took 2000 bucks and a whole lot of determination out of my pocket, made me see the world a bit different. I mean I don’t feel like the king of the world or enlightened, but what I do know that this is what I want, Not the cool Lamborghinis or sexy girls from Miami beach but a backpack with two pairs of boxers, a lighter, a pair of clothes and a heart to wander among the common people, never settling down. Like a shooting star wandering around the night sky, I want to wander through known and unknown lands, meet people, fall in love a million times and die with nothing but a smile on my face.  

 

Flying through the underpass

“The weather is so damn nice.” I told A as we were rode down the stretched road near the parade ground.

She looked up at the sky, getting darker and darker by every minute. I knew her mind was carried away by the soft icy breeze that barged into her helmet and embraced her face.

“We will go for a long ride and then head home?” she asked me shifting forward. I wanted to jump up and down, but I was riding, so I turned a little, met her eyes in the side view mirror, smiling like a kid who got a candy, I screamed “yes. Yes.”. Her face finally lit up with a faint smile.

“Will you be late, if we take this detour?” I asked her hoping for the best. She said its fine and anyways we won’t be that late.

 

We had grown tired of normal roads and traffic. One day when both of us were watching the movie, The perks of being a wallflower, There is this scene where three of them take the truck, drive down a long bright tunnel, with the song ‘heroes’ by David Bowie playing on the stereo. Logan stands in the back enjoying the wind and tells the others, “I feel infinite”. We also wanted to feel infinite. At that moment I told her that we are going for a tunnel ride, when it’s night and the cool air drops down for the people to enjoy it. We planned to go one day, on her scooter, with ‘heroes’ playing from a Bluetooth speaker, But it never happened. Now we finally had a chance. We decided to go to her old college and take the longer route to Kasturinagar and then take the ring road all the way to Kalyan Nagar. By doing so we will get two small underpasses (no proper tunnel in Bangalore) and enough memories for a night.

 

The traffic seemed to faint as we moved further away from the city. The streets filled with people and Ganeshas of all sizes and colours. Every Time A took her hand away from me, I thought she was going to fall. I would slow down and that would make her helmet tap on mine so I would know she was still sitting behind. She smiles and blames the helmet for being so naughty. She asks me about my uncle and I start running my mouth again. Once I start talking, it’s hard to shut me up. I keep on talking and she seemed to be lost in thoughts. Maybe enjoying the ride or wondering when I would shut up.

 

We reached ring road after an already long ride. Our eyes filled with excitement. I rode like a bullet. She held on with that faint smile, never fading. The breeze was hitting us harder now. I felt it piercing my skin and making my bones shiver. She held on and I dodged my way around the tired cars and glowing streetlights. Finally we could see the underpass. I tortured the accelerator and the engine roared with all its strength. When we flew through the dark underpass, I screamed A followed. It echoed and glared back at me. I wanted the time to freeze. At this moment, when we were in that underpass, smiling and screaming like we had everything we needed in our life. The wind bashing onto our face and tickling us. When life seemed to be alive and the world seemed to be ours. And then it was over. A couple of seconds that stretched our thoughts into a wider fabric of time making us feel that our life has still not left our souls. And if we wanted to, we could do anything that our heart wanted. And at that moment we felt it, we felt infinite.